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Sunday, September 16, 2012

To Portland, Maine

The completion of my trip is officiated by wading into the Atlantic Ocean at Popham beach, a peninsula north of Freeport, and Portland, Maine. The last month of my bike trip has been incredibly diverse, although the scenery was some of the least diverse I have seen across the entire country. It was difficult to expect from one state to the next, but the endless green foliage became the constant and view-limiting surrounding. Beginning in eastern Texas, I entered the long-dreaded humidity. There seems to be an invisible line in Texas running directly through the Dallas-Fort Worth area. To the west was the dry, hot grass lands and to the east began a full month of unbearable humidity. Before Texas, I rode early and late in the day to escape the heat. Once I entered Texas, I had my first experience with 110F temperatures. This is the type of weather where anyone exercising outdoors runs the risk of heat stroke, so my biking schedule abruptly made a 12-hour switch. I began riding about an hour before sunset, around 7 to 8 pm, and would ride until 2 or 3am. From there, I would set up my tent under a tree or truck stop awning, and sleep, eat, rest, and read until the next night, when I would begin the night biking again. Night-riding was not a new practice for me. While commuting to and from school and work via bicycle during winter in Alaska, my day would begin long before the sun rose and continue long after it set. My bike has always been equipped with lights and reflectors, so during winter back home and during the summer nights in Texas, I had enough blinking red lights to be mistaken for an emergency vehicle. Continuing into Louisiana, Arkansas, and Mississippi, I alternated between night and day riding, getting as far as I could when I could. It wasn't until I reached Atlanta, Georgia and began heading north that I was able to switch back to day riding full time.

At the end of a long day in Alabama, I met Ruth and Marco, originally from the Netherlands, and now owners of the Route 2 Cafe in Blocton, AL. I stopped at their cafe for dinner and began talking about bikes and traveling. After dinner, Ruth invited me to stay on her couch for the night and the next day Marco sent me off with several sandwiches for lunch and dinner. Marco introduced me to a Dutch treat which is a sandwich with butter and chocolate sprinkles. It was the tastiest snacks I've ever had and is one of my favorites now!

I got to Atlanta a few days later and was able to visit Caleb, a friend from college who I hadn't seen in a couple years. It was fun to catch up and see a bit of the city. From Atlanta, I turned northeast and immediately got sick. Up until then, I had felt healthy and strong, but what ever stomach bug I caught made it difficult to make any distance. I rode about 100 miles that week as oppose to my regular 350 miles. One day when I was feeling well enough to make a break for the next town, I made the decision to ride about 20 miles on the side of the interstate. I made it about ten miles before I was pulled over by a cop car, given a written warning, and kicked off onto the winding, unnavigable back roads. South Carolina's road planning leaves a lot to be desired. I eventually made it to where I was heading, checked into a motel, and slept and drank tea for the next three days. I finally recovered enough to get back on the bike. I had planned on meeting my dad in Washington DC on the 1st of September, but by the first, I only made it as far as Petersburg, Virginia. My dad rented a car and drove three hours south to pick me up. It was nice to get a ride and see some of the greenery go by a bit faster.

I spent four days in Washington DC with my dad wandering around the Smithsonian museums and memorials. I saw the White House, the Bill of Rights, the Constitution, and the Declaration of Independence. They were pretty cool pieces of US history to see. From Washing DC, Dad flew home and I hopped on a greyhound bus and rode to Worcester, Massachusetts. I had a one hour layover in Manhattan, so I did get a glimpse of the lights of New York at midnight. I would like to go back some day and do a bit of exploring. From Worcester, I rode to Nottingham, New Hampshire to visit Brandon, another friend from school, and his wife Meredith and their adorable kids. It was a two day ride from Worcester to Nottingham, and half way there I managed to find myself, for the third time since reaching the east coast, explaining myself to a police officer. I woke at 4am with a flashlight in my face and high beam cruiser lights silhouetting a police officer against the wall of my tent. Considering he got a three-second string of profanities screeching out of a tent in the backwoods of Massachusetts in the middle of the night, I'm not sure who got the bigger scare. He was just checking on me to see what I was doing there, but even after he left I couldn't get back to sleep. I got up and started biking a few hours later and was to Nottingham several hours earlier than expected. I stayed a couple nights in Nottingham, then was on my way with a parting gift from Brandon of a bottle of home brew hard cider. All set for the final leg of my trip.


I reached Portland, Maine shortly before noon on September 11, 2012, five months after starting out with my friend Molly from my sister Kari's back yard in Portland, Oregon. It seems so long ago, but somehow very recent. Traveling with the same bicycle, same tent and equipment, and even some of the same books has, in a way, frozen time. Maine looks similar to Oregon, and it is almost easy to forget how much distance is really between the two Portlands. I plan on riding along the coast back to Massachusetts, where I will visit one more friend, then fly out of Boston back to Alaska for the winter. I have a few ideas for the next trip, so over the next several months I will arrange and plan the details for the next leg of life.