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Monday, November 9, 2015

The Ozzy Novel

Alex and I ran the Melbourne marathon. It was my third and by far worst (that's what I get for hardly training) and Alex's 30-somethingith. Alex finished in about four and a half hours and I waddled in a bit after. The race ended in the Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG.) I pretended I was a cricket player as I ran around the last few hundred meters of the race inside of the stadium. My usual knee pains didn't show up at at all, but a new hip injury decided to make itself known. The last 10 kilometers (6ish miles) was a combination of painful jogging, power-walking, slow limping, and sitting on the curb stretching body parts as the paramedics swooped in. They are good people ready to help anyone looking distressed. No assistance needed by me, but I'm sure I looked like I was dying. I had no problem with the heat or the sun. The race organizers handed out tiny bottles of high SPF sun block at the race exposition and one fit perfectly in the key pocket of my running shorts. Neck and ears protected.

After running the Melbourne Marathon 10 times a runner has the option to join the "Spartans." The Spartans wear various colored shirts indicating that they have run the race 10, 15, 20... times. There are currently nine runners who have completed all 38 marathons. They wear gold and are known as the Legends. Alex wears the blue of a 10-year runner. In another year or two he graduates to the green of a 15-year runner. I have nine races to go to wear the blue. In the meantime I have joined the Sydney Striders, a long distance running club. It was fun to cheer on and be cheered by people in matching singlets.
 

 After the race Alex and I drove back to Sydney via Eden, packed the boat, and waited for a weather window to head south. While waiting another year snuck up on me and Hilary (Alex's partner) made a German chocolate cake for me for my 28th birthday.

Once the weather was favorable, Alex and I sailed south on October 29th. It took two days and one night to sail the Might Miss Berri (www.berrimilla.com/wordpress) to Eden. It was an extremely mild 40 hours on board and we motored nearly the entire way. Wind picked up in the last 12 hours or so and made for a gentle sail into Eden at Twofold Bay. 

Wildlife: The only seals I have ever seen look like giant baked potatoes basking in the sun on the sea ice in Alaska. I don't know what type they were, but on the boat trip south a group of three or four seals followed behind and alongside the boat swimming like dolphins through the waves. It was incredible to see baked potatoes demonstrating their agility.

We moored in Eden for a few days and waited for another weather window to sprint south to Hobart in Tasmania. Good northerly winds are not regular in south-east Australia so we worked with what we could get. We left on a gray morning and motored directly into the wind and rolling swells for three hours before we decided to turn back and wait for more comfortable seas. The next afternoon we tried again. We motored directly into the wind for about four hours with very little ocean swell, so the ride was much smoother. Off of Green cape the wind change that we expected finally arrived and we were able to put up the sails and turn off the engine. Green cape mildly protrudes as a rocky point, visible and easily avoidable -when traveling from the north. When approaching from the coast line from the south, Green cape is a deep lip to a bowl known as Disaster Bay. Early square-rigger ships could only sail 90 degrees off the wind, while modern sailboats can sail at 45 degrees. So for a old ship to be following the coastline with the wind at at least a right angle, there are very few option for evasive action in when a massive coastline and an hooked point block any escape. There is a memorial grave yard with the names of ships and sailors in the National Park boarding the bay.

We sailed for a few more hours, all the while the seas building, the wind and waves coming at us straight from the east at 25+ knots, and me with a aching head from being pitched head-first into the window above the galley. No bruising, but very tender. Alex stayed on concussion watch for a few days after. With everything going wrong and the seas and winds getting stronger, we turned back again. It was a full 14 hour round trip and neither of us got any sleep. It was late and pouring rain when we got back to Eden. After that we gave up on the idea of Hobart. Another day or two of waiting and we caught the next southerly back to Sydney.

The trip north took two full days and nights. We did our best to avoid the southern-flowing East Australia Current, sailed on much rougher seas than the trip south, and stayed close to the coastline for favorable tides. Hugging the coast took more navigating. My first night watch on the way back involved passing between the coast and an island in the pitch black of a cloudy night. It was eerie. The electronic chart gave our currently location, but all I could see of any sign of land was the lighthouse of the island and a few house lights along the coast. I am discovering that it is nearly impossible to determine distance of a light in the dark. Light houses miles away look like half a mile. In daylight the three or four mile gap between the coast and island would have been of no concern. Not being able to see either forces trust on an electronic that has not been 100% reliable. The chart program runs on laptop in the cabin and the computer has been known to crash or take a nap on occasion. Not so good.

By the next day the sea swell was building and the wind was picking up. By mid day we had 20+ knots and swells that seemed impossibly big for so close to shore. Over the next 24 hours we changed sail size several times, went back and forth on the different auto pilots, and did some hand-steering. Alex estimated the biggest swells were between six and eight meters. Most were in the three to four meter range. The boat would drop to the trough of a wave and all I could see of the world around was a wave in front and wave behind. When we rose back to the top I could see breaking waves for miles around on all sides. Some of the breaking waves were a little scary. Berrimilla is a good boat and has been through some incredible weather. I know she can handle the waves, but the newbie Alaskan is always a little on edge. 25+ knot winds for the rest of the trip to Sydney. Off of Point Perpendicular the waves were steeper and choppier than most places, but that was short-lived. We passed by the South Head lighthouse around 7am on November 8th and we tied up to the dock just a few minutes before 8am.

The ground was rocking for the rest of the day. Another good night's sleep and we are back to cleaning out the boat and figuring out what to do and where to go next.

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Moose and Fire and Bears. Oh, my.

Back in Alaska! Via airplane and not the expected route. I left Australia about 10 days before my visa ran out. With all paperwork in order, I have been approved to reenter in October! Another adventure is cuing in the wings. The ocean isn't going anywhere. We just need to work around her moods.

This morning a thought crossed my mind. "I wonder how many people carry bear spray to get to their own front door." Lately I have been sharing the path to my cabin on the hill with several sets of moose. There is one adult cow with a very small calf, a full-antlered bull, and a young cow. At this time of year the mother with the calf is most dangerous, although I really would not want to surprise or be surprised by any of them. My neighbor two doors down warned me that the black bears are out and roaming the hillside as well. Bears. They are the reason most people in the area are devoid of compost piles. I have yet to have a bear sighting on my hillside. I hope the presence of moose mean that their predators are not in the area.

I left my hillside cabin last September and had no idea I would be gone until June. The paths were almost completely over-grown and the elderberry bushes grew to above the roof line. I spend the better part of the day digging my cabin out of the foliage. When I left I had no electricity, water, or much of a kitchen. I still don't have electricity or water, but the kitchen is coming together. It is relatively easy to get by without electricity when it is light 24 hours a day and I haul in water a few liters at a time and add it to a big water jug as I need it. I like food, so the kitchenette has been patched together pretty quickly. Up until about a week ago I had been using a one-burner Coleman stove for cooking. I was cooking (outside) when one of the gaskets failed and spewed gas. It immediately caught fire and the whole thing, including cooking pot and my dinner went up in flames. Because the stove had been acting funny for the past few days I kept the extinguisher close by whenever the stove was on. Now I have white powder all over my deck, woodpile, stairs, yard, and front door. The extinguisher was one of the first things I bought when I got back from Oz. Within a few days of buying it I went back to buy a second. Best $25 I've ever spent.

Thursday, April 23, 2015

No Go. Something Else Go. Here We Go.

The big trip has been canceled. The plan was to sail from Sydney up to Dutch Harbor, Alaska, to Nome, then through the Northwest Passage. We would have wintered over in Falmouth, UK, then sailed back to Sydney via the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Weather has foiled all. A big storm hit Sydney on the day of our would-be departure, the northern hemisphere trade winds are blowing in the wrong direction, and the Aleutian Low (permanent low pressure system off the Aleutian islands) is nasty and looks like it isn't going anywhere. I'm predicting lots of rain for southern AK this summer. A few more minor weather points included means the trip is a No-Go.
Alex and I are doing what we can and taking a trip up the Australian east coast and around the area over the next few weeks. We also made good use of Sydney's "Storm of the Century" by going out to play in the waves.

We will both still be writing to the Berri Blog while on board.


Lurline Bay, waves break over South Coogee.
Lurline Bay, waves break over South Coogee. Photo: Peter Rae /Sydney Morning Herald

Friday, April 3, 2015

Merry Ol' Land of Oz

I am back in Sydney, Oz; land of the sulfur-crested cockatoo and P. Sherman 42 Wallaby Way. The general idea of this trip is to click my heels together and say, "There's no place like Nome, there's no place like Nome..." But instead of magic shoes and a cairn terrier, I have a worn-out pair of Xtra Tuffs and a skipper with a cat who bites.

The Berrimilla2, a Brolga33 sailboat is sitting at her usual mooring in Rushcutters bay. She has been emptied and for the most part, cleaned. Before long she will be refilled, hopefully with some semblance of organization, and ready for travel. The entire voyage is still weather dependent. Until we are on the water and sailing north we tread carefully and hope not to infuriate Neptune.

Wednesday, March 11, 2015

On to the Next

It has been a few months in planning and  it is not officially a go until the sails are set. Which is entirely in the literal sense. I fly to Australia in late March with the tentative, but incredibly optimistic plan to board a sailboat and try my hand at seafaring. The sailboat is the Berrimilla2 of Sydney, Australia, owned and skippered by Alex Whitworth. I have known Alex for several years and spent a bit of time on the Berri with him while in Oz back in December and January. I don't remember exactly who came up with the idea, but the plans are now coming together and my lists are gradually being checked off. I will post more as the details unfurl. Alex's blog is on the Berrimilla website. While on board we will both be posting to the Berri Blog: http://berrimilla.com/wordpress/category/latestposts/

Friday, January 30, 2015

Back to the Last Frontier

I've been back in snowy Nome for about two weeks. I was definitely spoiled by the warm Australian climate. Sitting in the living room enjoying a warm breeze from the open door is a pretty nice way to spend an afternoon. Alas, my running regiment now begins with putting on three layers of clothing and ends with melting icicles off my eyelashes. Oh, well. It's home.

 The sea ice is finally setting. The land-locked ice is strong, but about a half mile off shore the currents keep the drifting pack from fastening to the solid section. Before we can start setting our pots for ice crabbing we prefer the ice to freeze just a bit farther out. It is possible to set pots now, albeit perhaps futile. The ocean in front of Nome is extremely shallow and setting the pots in shallow water does not guarantee a catch. Our crabbing is subsistence and certainly not an essential part of survival, but who wouldn't want fresh king crab.

I haven't been home long and there's already another potential trip in the works. It depends on the stars aligning.

Edge of the sea ice in front of Nome.

Monday, January 5, 2015

Two in One Day!

Australia! I met up with my old friend Alex Whitworth, who I met in Alaska in 2008. He stopped through Nome as he sailed his boat the Berrimilla II through the North West Passage. (www.berrimilla.com) Alex has been back to Alaska to visit twice and I have finally made it to his corner of the world. After any amount of time of the road it is a relief to finally see a familiar face. Alex and his partner Hilary have shown me around Sydney and pointed out quite a few points of interest that I would have missed without the expertise of locals. I have had the opportunity to see the “Berri” again, this time in her home field. Although several sailboats pass through the harbor in Nome, each year they never look quite at home tethered between a Crowley fuel barge and the homemade mining dredges.

Alex and I have taken Berri out a few times in the past couple of weeks. The first couple sails were day trips around the Sydney harbor. On Boxing day we headed out into the ocean to watch the start of the Sydney-Hobart sailboat race. It was incredible to watch 100 boats under sail emerging from behind the cliffs of South Head. It was even more incredible to be heading straight into the traffic of the 200 boats (of all kinds) who were following on all sides of the racers. We made it back to harbor in one piece and began making plans for a longer trip out to sea.

On New Years Eve Alex, Hilary, and I went out to Bradley's Head in the center of the Sydney harbor to watch the New Years fireworks. There was a small (relatively to the main event) display at 9pm for kids. The entire midnight show lasted ten minutes and cost $7 million. Six barges aligned down the harbor and sent off synchronized displays. The Harbor Bridge was lit up even more brightly than all the rockets coming from the barges. I can't imagine how long it took to set up the fireworks and connect the fuses. The bridge was closed for hours before and after the show. Everything was extremely visible from several miles away. Having sailed under the bridge I have a rough idea of its height and am immeasurable impress with the impossibly prolonged fire waterfall the fell from the bridge several hundred feet to the water below. It was an incredible thing to see.

The next day Alex and I headed out on the Berrimilla. Along the way I was able to make a blog entry on the official Berrimilla site. (Very exciting for me!)

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MEGAN ABOARD THE BERRIMILLA II

BY BERRIMILLA SAILMAIL ON JANUARY 2, 2015, AT 0540
Today has been my first ocean voyage on a sailboat. Alex has taken me sailing around the Sydney harbor a few times before and decided it was time to take a trip into the Pacific. Alex and I parked the Berrimilla II in Quarantine Bay last night to make for an easy launch up the coast. The trip north to Patonga beach in Broken Bay went fairly well. “Fairly” meaning I managed to keep myself in the boat and we avoided, only just, a collision with a sports fishing boat with an apparently not-all-present skipper. Somewhere between cursing at the boat and cutting down the fishing hooks that were swinging around the cockpit we both missed the name and registration of our near hit-and-runner. In the last 24 hours I have come across two major personal challenges. The first being the constant battle of sea sickness and the second being the self-education of how to properly piss on a moving boat. A bucket in the cockpit works well, but being tossed around in the ocean while sitting on a bucket feels like riding a mechanical bull while attempting to relieve one’s self. It goes against all instinct and I don’t imagine I will ever risk going to a rodeo bar again. The sea sickness is by far the worst part. While driving, Alex is always within a few seconds of the rudder to take
over when I need a minute or two to heave over the side. I am learning a lot and having fun, sea sickness and all. I had an hour on shore at Patonga beach to balance myself again and fetch a couple of ice creams. We are heading out tonight for my first night sail back to Sydney.



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In mid December I flew down to Melbourne and visited the Owens family. I spent Christmas with them in Germany in 2008. Now they are living back in Australia and are some of the very few people that I have seen on three different continents. I like to keep up with old friends.

Alex and I are heading out on a road trip tomorrow.


Happy New Year from Down Under!

My new friend.

Recapitulation of New Zealand

It has been almost a month since I left New Zealand. I was there for about five weeks in all. Before I left home I posted a rough list of things I wanted to see or do while at NZ. I think I did pretty well.

1) Find glow worms





Waitomo Glow Worm Caves south of Hamilton on the North Island.




2) Pet a sheep





Commander Cody of Glen Hope on the South Island. He thinks he's a dog.



3) Take a boat around the fjords in the south west corner of the South Island
     Sadly, I did not make it to the fjords. I suppose it is best to leave something for the next trip!

4) Find a kiwi and a kakapo bird


I found them both, although not quite in the form I was hoping. I found the kiwi in the Wellington zoo and the kakapo in the Australian Museum. The kakapo is not extinct yet, but their numbers are extremely low. (Read Douglas Adams' Last Chance to See for a good narrative on the kakapo.)


5) Visit Hobbiton
     When it came to it, I chose to pass by Hobbiton. I realized that most of New Zealand looks like the Shire.


Road side south of Pukakohe.






6) Climb Mount Doom (Mount Ngauruhoe on the North Island)
     Alas, I was defeated by weather. I will challenge the mountain another day.

7) Drink wine at local vineyards (plural)

     Cheers! Point conquered and then some.

8) Swim in Lake Tuapo

     I did not swim. The weather was too cold to allow for a comfortable swim. Instead I sat in a warm cafe and drank tea while looking at the water. Close enough.

9) Visit Maori rock carvings



I took a boat from Taupo out onto Lake Taupo. Tour groups go out regularly.









There are so many wonderful things to see and do in New Zealand. I made this list to try to see a few local high lights. They were interesting, but I find the unexpected parts of traveling to be the best.